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After weeks on end of ponderous, dreary,
self-flagellating daily bangs, I guess that you could use a break, and I
certainly could. So, let me
wax philosophical about my favorite subject:
food!
My forever expanding-and-contracting waistline
attests to my plain, simple, unbridled love of food.
How I wish I could attribute it to a congenital glandular foul-up
or even some unresolved seated. The
truth is that I am crazy about food, period.
Cajun. Chinese.
Japanese. Vietnamese.
Viennese. Mediterranean. Teutonic. Slavonic.
Soul. Korean.
And do not forget about Thai.
Moreover, why should I deny that good, heavy,
Eastern European Jewish cuisine, redolent of mother-love, is closest to
my heart? If you wish to
invite me for dinner and make a faithful friend for life, just bring out
the chopped liver, the golden soup, the shimmering brisket and
well-marbled flanken, and the corps of K-rations: kishke, kugel,
knishes, kasha, knobbelwurst and knaidlach.
A shot of generic schnapps, a sip or two of syrupy Mogen David,
tea from a glass, Tagamet, a cushy chair with matching ottoman, and a
moratorium on all meaningful conversation until the coma has had time to
abate.
Yes, Virginia, in case you were wondering, there
are, amid the passion and the glory, a few Jewish foods so nasty that
even I will not touch them. Should
you really care about me, you will absolutely eschew the following:
Pitscha
– If ever there were onomatopoeia, pitscha
richly deserves its name. Garlic
Jell-O. The gelatinous
remains of boiled calf's foot, enhanced with shreds of meat and copious
fresh garlic. Brown.
Granular. Quivery.
Creepy. I have spent
seven years in analysis because my doting Aunt Leah tried to force-feed
me pitscha at the tender age
of two. Serve me pitscha
and you may as well be administering a spoonful of Ipecac.
Pitscha is also known in our family as "fuss-noga,"
a German-Russian conglomerate-name that translates “foot-foot.” Good
luck.
Fisselach
– AKA coq-au-pitscha.
Fisselach are the
viscous remnants of chicken feet that have been boiled to a
fare-thee-well to fortify the chicken soup.
My earliest childhood recollections involve the sight of my
mother and Aunt Minnie, may they rest in peace, hunched over the kitchen
sink sucking the last morsels out of a batch of fisselach.
Even then, you will note, they were beneath the status of table
food. Now that we buy
kosher chickens pre-processed and frozen, the Jewish homemaker no longer
has ready access to fisselach.
My mother lamented their
departure the way that old cronies decry the demise of the nickel cigar.
Retach-mit-Schmaltz
– Who but the children of Israel would think of making an
appetizer of grated black radish bound with rendered chicken fat?
Sometimes a bit of sweet carrot is grated in, as if to atone for
the noxious vapors of the radish. Spread
that on a Ritz, huh? Retach-mit-schmaltz
is a thoroughly sinister dish: taste, aroma, texture, concept,
heartburn, ick. Once upon a
time, I was served retach-mit-schmaltz
at the Sabbath table of a Chassidic Rebbe.
My faith shaken, I contemplated entering a monastery for an
entire month thereafter.
Lung-und-Lebber
– My Uncle Joe, may he rest in peace, was the world's most lovable
rascal. Time and again he
would stray from the family fold. And
time and again, my bubbeh
would reel him in with a steaming bowl of lung-und-lebber.
It is, I regret to inform you, just what it sounds like – a
stew of beef lung and liver. Uncle
Joe would bathe in the tureen, but even as a toddler, I instinctively
refused even to enter the dining room.
Five decades have passed, but my disposition has not changed.
At my bubbeh’s urging, Joe would also devour plates full
of another disreputable organ called
“miltz.” Pancreas?
Tripe? Thymus
glands? It was spongy and disgusting, so let a pathologist make a
positive identification. I
can only imagine that in heaven above my bubbeh
is still dishing up lung-und-lebber
and miltz to her beloved Yossele.
As for me, I would rather stoke the fires of Hades.
So there.
I have now bared my soul and palate entirely to you – what
turns me on and what turns me off.
You did not ask, but just in case a dinner party were in the
offing, you ought at least know the difference between the good, the
bad, and the ugly. And lest
I be indicted for this being an exercise in Jewish self-hate, let me
remind you that I also grit my teeth at the thought of escargot,
calamari, tomato aspic, and sweetbreads.
I have never been forced to a showdown between pitscha and livermush or scrapple, but somehow I think I would still
give my Aunt Leah the benefit of the doubt.
So, scuttle the reservations at the Four Seasons.
Whisper sweet words of brisket and potato kugel in my ear, and I
will show you an ecstasy that approaches nirvana.
A foretaste, as the Good Book says, of the World-to-Come.
Trust me.
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Send comments to the writer Marc Wilson
here
Readers Comments:
From Suri Grusgott
an addition:
Schav- a green grass drink my father drinks and always proclaims,
"this would be great with sour cream." The
sight and smell make me gag. may have been invented when people were short
on real food.
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